San Sebastian Snitch

For those of you who remember your schooldays, you might recall the unwritten school laws which meant you were never to tell tales or ‘grass up your mates’, no matter how severe the playground crime was. Lesley say’s in Scotland it was ‘to clipe’. I’m sure there are many other derivations including ‘ratting’ and to ‘snitch’. But as we were to be reminded ‘snitch’ also has other meanings too….

We set off from our sardine-packed aire intending to take the funicular railway to the top of Monte Igueldo situated to the west of the town.

According to the ticket office the antique funicular railway, which was first opened in 1912, has never broken down in all that time. We’re not sure why it chose today to take a holiday after 107 years, but if we want to get to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the panorama over San Sebastian we’re going to have to walk.

Dave taking a well earned rest on the way up.

There were some great views on the way up which gave us many excuses to stop and get our breath back. Approaching the summit we (Dave) expected a round of applause, medals or a nice view and an ice cream vendor. Nope. If you want access to the view €2.30 each was the ticket price. I did my best huff and puff and turned around and went back down!

What a gorgeous beach
San Sebastian’s elegant city hall

Our legs were tired with the walk to the old town and so surprise, surprise, time for pintxos for lunch, that were just great. We topped off lunch with two huge ice creams that needed so much dedication we had to sit in the sun on the decking by the harbour to concentrate on fully appreciating the task before us. It was torture, no it was, really….!

Our very popular aire is next to the University where there is conveniently an electric bike station. So the next day we paid €8 for a card and took out 2 bikes to explore the city.

¿What is dBizi?
dBizi bike collection station

dBizi became the first 100% electric public bike system. Its aim is to promote active and sustainable mobility in the city of San Sebastián-Donostia. The system consists of 16 docking stations located throughout the city of San Sebastián-Donostia and 125 electric bikes

The city has really embraced the bike. Not just for the dBizi but private cyclists, electric scooters and roller bladers, the network of marked routes is just fantastic, allowing you to travel in (relative) safety by sticking to the marked routes. And when you want to stop you can park or exchange your dBizi at one of the 16 charging stations. – Brilliant

Lesley enjoying the sunshine in the park
The peacock was making a right old racket trying to get the attention of his girls!
One of the many pretty green spaces in the centre of town

It is impossible not to fall for San Sebastian’s Basque laid back charm. It helps when the beach(es) are fantastic and weather is near perfect. The food is delicious and the whole place is so vibrant.

The band stand was closed so this is as close as we could get to having a jive in honour of Jan and George
Quidditch anyone?

This week is the International Comic Fair of San Sebastian. We sat watching this bizarre game without a clue what it was. All the players had a stick between their legs, there were 3 hoops at either end and more than one ball!!!. It wasn’t until we asked at the the tourist office and after much head scratching looking at our photos, they worked it out the it was a practice game of Quidditch taking prior to the San Sebastian Comic Fair.

Cedric Diggory, Hufflepuff house’s Quidditch team captain and Seeker.

Quidditch is played with 7 players: 3 hunters, 2 kickers, 1 Guardian and 1 search engine. It is played with both women and men on the same team. The party will have their chance to look for the Golden Snitch while the Quaffle scores points dodging the Bludgers.

I say absolutely spiffing….. toodle oo

D&L

San Sebastian Snitch

For those of you who remember your schooldays, you might recall the unwritten school laws which meant you were never to tell tales or ‘grass up your mates’, no matter how severe the playground crime was. Lesley say’s in Scotland it was ‘to clipe’. I’m sure there are many other derivations including ‘ratting’ and to ‘snitch’. But as we were to be reminded ‘snitch’ also has other meanings too….

We set off from our sardine-packed aire intending to take the funicular railway to the top of Monte Igueldo situated to the west of the town.

According to the ticket office the antique funicular railway, which was first opened in 1912, has never broken down in all that time. We’re not sure why it chose today to take a holiday after 107 years, but if we want to get to the top of Monte Igueldo and enjoy the panorama over San Sebastian we’re going to have to walk.

Dave taking a well earned rest on the way up.

There were some great views on the way up which gave us many excuses to stop and get our breath back. Approaching the summit we (Dave) expected a round of applause, medals or a nice view and an ice cream vendor. Nope. If you want access to the view €2.30 each was the ticket price. I did my best huff and puff and turned around and went back down!

What a gorgeous beach
San Sebastian’s elegant city hall

Our legs were tired with the walk to the old town and so surprise, surprise, time for pintxos for lunch, that were just great. We topped off lunch with two huge ice creams that needed so much dedication we had to sit in the sun on the decking by the harbour to concentrate on fully appreciating the task before us. It was torture, no it was, really….!

Our very popular aire is next to the University where there is conveniently an electric bike station. So the next day we paid €8 for a card and took out 2 bikes to explore the city.

¿What is dBizi?
dBizi bike collection station

dBizi became the first 100% electric public bike system. Its aim is to promote active and sustainable mobility in the city of San Sebastián-Donostia. The system consists of 16 docking stations located throughout the city of San Sebastián-Donostia and 125 electric bikes

The city has really embraced the bike. Not just for the dBizi but private cyclists, electric scooters and roller bladers, the network of marked routes is just fantastic, allowing you to travel in (relative) safety by sticking to the marked routes. And when you want to stop you can park or exchange your dBizi at one of the 16 charging stations. – Brilliant

Lesley enjoying the sunshine in the park
The peacock was making a right old racket trying to get the attention of his girls!
One of the many pretty green spaces in the centre of town

It is impossible not to fall for San Sebastian’s Basque laid back charm. It helps when the beach(es) are fantastic and weather is near perfect. The food is delicious and the whole place is so vibrant.

The band stand was closed so this is as close as we could get to having a jive in honour of Jan and George
Quidditch anyone?

This week is the International Comic Fair of San Sebastian. We sat watching this bizarre game without a clue what it was. All the players had a stick between their legs, there were 3 hoops at either end and more than one ball!!!. It wasn’t until we asked at the the tourist office and after much head scratching looking at our photos, they worked it out the it was a practice game of Quidditch taking prior to the San Sebastian Comic Fair.

Cedric Diggory, Hufflepuff house’s Quidditch team captain and Seeker.

Quidditch is played with 7 players: 3 hunters, 2 kickers, 1 Guardian and 1 search engine. It is played with both women and men on the same team. The party will have their chance to look for the Golden Snitch while the Quaffle scores points dodging the Bludgers.

I say absolutely spiffing….. toodle oo

D&L

Logroño

Here’s a quick quiz question? Who wrote to the lyrics to this well known song. Clue being on benefits might NOT be the answer.

Life is fine every time
Thoughts of you leave my head
I was wrong, now I find
Just one thing makes me forget….

Cune – One of the many Rioja’s Lesley sampled

After overnighting in Vitoria Gasteiz, we took a scenic route over the hills towards Logroño. In spite of it being a large town, when we were only 15km away we couldn’t see any sign of the city. It was almost as well hidden in the surrounding landscape as La Paz in Bolivia is.

As we got closer it became apparent we were in a wine growing area since the hills became patterned with grapevines. On the outskirts of the city, we easily found the aire at Las Norias which was ideal with tree lined bays and quite empty. We chose a shady pitch 50 metres from the bus stop into town.

Cathedral de Santa María de la Redonda- Yes I know it’s ABC but the square was nice.

Logroño is the epicentre of tapas in Spain and the capital city of Rioja. As well as serving pintxos (an influence from the nearby Basque Country), the bars here often specialise in just one particular thing, be it mushrooms, scrambled eggs or spider crab fishcakes.

We got the number 3 bus from Las Norias into the centre of the town. Our plan was to do some sampling of the pintxos washed down with a few glasses of Rioja’s very fine wine.

Iglesia de San Bartolomé with a very impressive entrance

We wandered around for a while but everything was closed. It is not like the Bradfords to be early for anything but in this case we were. As we discovered when we went to the tourist information, most of the bars do not open until around 8:00-8:30pm.

Because of the split working day, eating late is a way of life here.

We headed towards the Museum of La Rioja to pass some time before the bars opened. It turned out to have lots of interesting information about the region and it’s history but nothing about wine. I wonder how many other unsuspecting tourists have been lured in expecting wine info….

We really liked these mushrooms soaked in garlic, yum, yum.

Having had our fill of Rioja (history), we found a bar and enjoyed a glass of white and one red with crisps for €2.40 – Yes cheap and very nice. That first bar gave us chance to make plan of attack – Bar1 Goat’s Cheese + Mystery thing, Bar2 Patatas Bravas and asparagus wrapped in ham and cheese mmmm v nice, Bar3 Garlic mushrooms with prawn (fav so far) Bar4/5…. well it get’s a bit hazy after that, but we did make it safely back to Las Norias and Charlie’s comfy bed.

The next day slightly worse for wear we set off for a scenic drive north through some pretty spectacular countryside.

We thought we ask this friendly piggy for directions – but we think he might have told us porkies… GROAN
We found an aire with a nice view in Onita.

Well as you might have already worked out it was Neil Diamond who sang the original in 1968 – We prefer the UB40 version… Red, red wine goes to my head. Makes me forget…..

Toodle Pip

D&L

The rain in Spain

As a soft southerner, when I first moved to Manchester I told my friends ‘daan sarf ‘that Manchester deserved its reputation for being wet, when in reality it averages only 830mm of rain per year. Compare that with the Lake District, which I have to say is particularly moist. Seathwaite in Borrowdale for example, is the wettest inhabited place in England -averaging some 3,300 millimetres (130 in) of rain each year.

The northern Basque Country – like the Lakes – is nice and green because guess what the rain is greater than “on the plain”. That said even in the north (the wettest part) the rainfall is less than 1000 mm. So when the heavens opened up here today, as a Cumbrian might say ”It’s nowt but a la’l shower lad”.

Comillas before the rain came
This reminded me of a Vettriano scene
The Singing Butler – Jack Vettriano.

We elected not to hang about in Comillas in the rain, so after visiting the laudramat (again) we set sail for Bilbao.

The aire we found in Bilbao offers a stupendous view over the city. For 15€ per night, each spot has it’s own electricity and a water connection (with really good pressure). It’s guarded during the day. And the number 58 bus that takes you right into the centre, runs regularly from a stop just 100 meters away.

The Mercado de la Ribera

After meeting a chatty local couple on the bus which took us to the the heart of downtown Bilbao we started with the market at The Mercado de la Ribera and were quickly drawn to the Pintxos in its gastro bars. We enjoyed the walk along the riverbank to the Guggenheim museum.

Yes after basking in the high temperatures in the south, the warm coat was necessary

Designed by American architect Frank Gehry, the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is a magnificent example of groundbreaking architecture. The building and the museum has transformed the fortunes of Bilbao. The millions like us, come to see and photograph the structure without knowing or necessarily being interested in the artworks inside.

Some might say this is just a pile of round sphericals !

The Guggenheim is huge with 11,000 m2 of dedicated exhibition space, and although the museum is an undoubted architectural landmark providing a perfect backdrop for the art exhibited in it. However for me the majority of the art inside as Shania Twain would say “didn’t impress me much’. Yes there were three rooms full of ‘masters’ Van Gogh, Picasso, Gaugin, Renoir et al. But I don’t get Mark Rothko or even worse a huge long wall of nine canvases with varying amounts of paint splattered on them… naaagh!

Pablo Picasso – Woman with Yellow Hair
The spider sculpture Maman by Louise Bourgeois

Now the external sculptures for me were just great, I loved the idea of the Fog sculpture ” by Fujiko Nakaya, it made me feel quite homesick….

For all cat lovers, flower lovers and lovers of cats made from flowers!
View from the campsite

We really liked Bilbao and enjoyed finding our way around the streets (calles) of the old town, the Guggenheim is definitely worth seeing and we had some great tapas pintxos in the market but sadly once again no ice-cream. (I have written to my MP, but apparently he’s busy with some other stuff in Westminster at the mo…)

Oh how we miss the rain…

Pip Pip, toodle oo

Dave & Lesley

Northern pointy bits

As I’m feeling better we’re leaving Leon and heading in the general direction of Bilbao. Travelling as the crow griffin vulture flies you cross some biggish lumps called the Picos de Europa.

To cross the Picos our route took us passed the flood town of Riaño, where we had identified an aire without services but good reviews and close to the village.

New Riaño is the upper part of the original town before the planned construction of a dam and reservoir flooded the village in the 1980s.

Noah’s Arc ? or an original grain store

The village and its low lying farmland were to be submerged, as were six other villages in the associated dam project. The residents were relocated to New Riaño, built as a replacement higher above the reservoir waters.

The exclusive view from our lounge and bedroom

We had a magnificent parking spot to ourselves with an uninterrupted view of the mountains reflected in the reservoir. Just perfect.

Long ago on a sunlit day –
I chanced upon a mountain lake, 
Shining like clear mirrored glass, 
In it the skies I could make; 

Its grace kissed by a gentle breeze, 
The ripples rose in wave-like fake, 
Pristine waters clear and cool
For lesser mortals thirst to slake, 

Luring travellers to rest awhile
All worldly measures put to stake, 
Blossoms wild in red and blue
Were scattered aground like snow flake, 

Saw diamonds shine from tender blades, 
Foliage on its shores opaque, 
Maples, pines and cedars tall
Loamy shelters for birds to rake, 

Fair bleating sheep with tinkling bells
Sweet melody to keep awake; 
Dancing fairies put to trance
Their astral chores all left to quake, 

Bid adieu to its virgin shores
Wishing its tranquil I could take, 
Can still see the mountain lake
Calling me in a dreamless wake.

KaitlyThe Mountain Lake – Poem by Amar Agarwala
I never tire of driving in this kind of landscape

The drive through the mountains and up and over was fantastic with very green rocks! The air must be very clean as the lichen covered the rocks to give an emerald hue to the hillsides.

These nets suggest some serious potential headaches!

Our lunch spot was the town of Potes where we were able to stock up on essential supplies. The area around Potes is popular for outdoors activities such as walking and climbing. We had thought we might take a trip to Fuente Dé, where you can take a cable car up to a height of 1850m, but there is so much to see and do, we’ll just have to put it on the growing list ‘for-next-time‘.

Eventually we popped out the other side of the Picos and found the coast once again.

Toodle Pip

Dave & lesley

León – going solo

Last night just after arriving in León we sat down with a cuppa as is our usual routine when we arrive somewhere and Dave started shivering uncontrollably.

At first, I thought he was exaggerating but it became apparent very quickly that he was not. His hand was shaking so much he could not hit the keys on the laptop. Putting on jackets and wrapping him up in the duvet he continued to shiver whilst having a very hot head. Within a short time he was radiating heat and had developed a fever. Obviously we were not going out that evening so we put the bed down and Dave went to bed early wrapped up in the duvet and was soon asleep.

The lady in red is not me.

The next day Dave was feeling a bit better, his temperature appeared normal but he still wasn’t 100%. So I had to go and explore Leon on my own. Without Dave’s inbuilt navigation, I took photos of my planned route to assist.

Starting off by the river, it appeared to be a place for people jogging or walking alongside.

I came up from the river in the large Plaza de San Marcos with a huge hotel that was being renovated….. looks like it will be rather nice when it’s finished.

Joining the wide pedestrian avenue with cherry blossom falling, lots of people were enjoying a walk in the morning sunshine.

One of Gaudi’s creations

Casa Bottines – one of the few buildings designed by Antonio Gaudi that were built outside Catalonia. A house split into  flats for the owners of a textile company. Their offices were also in this building, so they didn’t have far to travel to get to work!

I arrived outside the cathedral and sat in the sunshine listening to organ music playing inside. [Sorry I forgot the ABC rule]

Wondering into the streets in the old town I came across lots of bars and the most fabulous cheese shop unfortunately for me (but fortunately for our budget) I had left my purse behind!

It was such a shame that Dave missed this as I know with him there and a purse, we would have tried a few of those bars

As I headed back through the centre I was aware of chanting, this was one of the many climate change protests taking place on Friday around the world – many teenagers are protesting and going on strike from school FridaysforFuture

I finished off the walk coming back through the park that was just the other side of the river from the aire. The park had a nice feel with shady areas to sit and peacocks, hens and cockerels making quite a racquet.

I tried to persuade him to open his tail feathers – Dave says I should have asked him to Shake a tail feather but I guess he didn’t speak English.

Toodle Pip

Lesley

From Skye to the Vine

A food and wine lovers pilgrimage.

During our honeymoon in May 2004 we stayed in some special places in the Western Isles. However the Three Chimneys restaurant on the Isle of Skye stands out as most special. The food was fabulous and the wines superb. Our wine choice, guided by a very knowledgeable waiter, was a bottle of 3 Choirs – an English white from Gloucestershire (for our lunch). But for our most memorable evening meal, a Ribero del Duero red from – Pago de los Capellanes.

“The Wall Street Journal were so impressed by their Three Chimneys experience, they have listed it as one of five restaurants in the world and the only one in the United Kingdom that is genuinely worth travelling a long distance for”.

Having visited a couple of traditional French vineyards I wasn’t expecting the stark modern architecture we saw as we approached the winery at Pedrosa de Duero.

We had an expert tour of the winery starting with a short film of the winery throughout the seasons with a beautiful musical score, produced by the owner’s son, Javier Rodero that won a best short film award at Cannes.

Pago de los Capellanes is a 125ha estate where the owners, the Rodero-Villa family, and winemaker Paco Casas, produce wines made from 100% native Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) grape variety. These grapes are characterised by their thick skins, which protects the fruit from extreme local conditions and produces intense wines in terms of colour, structure and tannin content.

“The soils that produce Ribero del Duero wines are found at an altitude of 800 meters above sea level and are clay-lime, with very little productive potential, which makes the plant take root deep into the earth. The vines face very hot summers (up to 45ºC) and very cold winters (0º) with a rainfall level of around 500ml per year. Similarly, during the harvest the thermal contrasts between day and night are also extreme, benefiting the grape ripening process, strengthening the alcoholic content…..”

http://www.foodswinesfromspain.com
An idea to short cut the bottling process perhaps!

I think one of the biggest lessons I learnt from the wine tour was the extraordinary number of factors that go into the make up of wine. However at Pago del Los Capellanes they play with those variables and really focus heavily on consistency. So for example if today in 2019 you try a two year old Crianza. In two years time 2021 you buy a 2019 Crianza it should be very similar.

We sampled three wines, I liked the Crianza, Lelsey preferred the Reserva, (Lesley always has had expensive taste). However we both like Pago de los Capellanes – There you go, there’s always something you can agree on.

Well that was very nice, we saw a very nice film, tasted 3 different, very nice, hic, wines, (am I repeating myself?) I think I need to have a little lie down, hic, for a bit – Now where did we park Charlie?

Toooodle peep

D&L

The road to Segovia

After the Spanish economy crashed around 2007/08, partly as a result of the housing bubble, the government took the decision to invest in the country’s roads network. So today Spain is crisscrossed with an excellent world-class transport infrastructure.

Spain’s State Road Network is over 26,000 kilometres long, making it the longest network of highways and motorways in Europe. It is estimated that the tasks of construction, maintenance and operation of this network provided jobs to over 40,000 people in Spain. John Maynard Keynes would have been impressed.

We passed Madrid without straining(!) heading for a lunch stop with a view at a small ski resort of Puerto de Navacerrada, in the mountain range of the Sierra de Guardarrama.

We arrived in Segovia with no pre-conceptions of the town. It was an useful stopping off point on our way north that had free motorhome parking with facilities. We were therefore delighted to find a picturesque old city with twisting alleyways, bordered by a medieval wall and two rivers. Plus the famous Oman Aqueduct.

Charlie’s lodgings in Segovia
The sttart of the aqueduct

In 1985, this sleepy Castillan town was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO. It’s now a major tourist spot with obligatory Nikons and selfiesticks (ours is a pocket sized Cannon SX280 HS).

I bet the Roman plumbers when they were asked to build this, would have said something like – “Well mate it’s not going to be cheap”, accompanied by much sucking of breath.

You can see where the guys who built the Mezquita Mosque in Cordoba got their design inspiration for the double arches from.
The Plaza Mayor

We meandered though the winding streets of the Jewish quarter to the main square. But we weren’t allow access as they were shooting scenes for a forthcoming movie. The action started (much shooting and running) so we looked on with our best concerned faces in the background, hoping to get bit parts.

Well, no blog would be complete without at least an image of a Cathedral

The people in the tourist office were lovely and had a bit of a debate amongst themselves about whether Alcázar was free….. I think it was, but only Tuesday’s, between 2 and 4pm, if you are an EU citizen. I think we still are until the 29th……maybe!

This picturesque palace is said to be Walt Disney’s inspiration for Cinderella’s Castle.

The Alcázar, is a royal palace built sometime around the 11th century. It is also where Queen Isabella had agreed to fund Christopher Columbus’ exploration of the New World.

We saw this statue of Agapito Marazuela and wondered if he had a spilt personality?

One more point about the roads – The main arteries of the Spain’s road network away from the big conurbations are pretty quiet, especially in the early afternoon during siesta time. The route though small towns and village have strict speed limits often enforced by vicious overweight sleeping policemen, who if not spotted in time have the habit of catapulting the contents of Charlie’s garage skywards. A bit like the bumps you get when on the receiving end of a playground seesaw!

Toodle oo

Dave & Lesley

Windy food shocker

It is estimated that there are around 1.6 million vegetarians in the UK and of those an increasing number (estimated 500,000) are on a wholly vegan diet that not only involves cutting out animal products like meat and fish, but also dairy and eggs.

Coming away to Spain I said I wanted to have as close as possible an authentic Spanish experience particularly with regards to food. So far I had a few hits and a couple of misses – a plate full of mixed whole fish in Guadix comes to mind.

We saw quite a few of these large 20 ft tall Matadors with guitars – Olé

Today we’re heading away from Cordoba towards Madrid to make tracks up country in a generally NE direction. We’ve had some great experiences over the last week, but to fit in even more good stuff we need to cajole Charlie into covering some serious miles.

The more miles we do, the more fuel we use, so frequent visits to top up both diesel and LPG are required, especially as our single 6kg Gaslow tank is in hindsight a tad on the small side. Filling up with GPL as it is called in Spain is generally a straightforward affair, except where the gas station attendant (who insisted on helping) hadn’t got a clue how to attach the gas hose to the nipple – eventually after much gesticulation he let us show him how it’s done.

Campo de Criptana – This was the view out of Charlie’s windscreen.

We’d seen on ‘Search for sites’ a parking spot with good reviews not too far off our route near these windmills. When we arrived the area was busy with sightseers. When they had all gone, apart from two other French registered vans, we had this huge parking area to ourselves.

Las Musas restaurant, complete with Don Quixote images

The Las Musas restaurant next to the windmills in Campo de Criptana had some great reviews although it was almost guaranteed to be tad expensive for our budget. However parking so close we just couldn’t resist at least checking if they might have a free table?

As we approached we could hear loud music coming from a bar area on the terrace outside. Luckily this stopped shortly after we secured a table in an empty restaurant – well it was only 8:30! which is opening time in Spain.

Lesley’s very nicely presented foie gras

The foie gras was covered in gold-dusted chocolate with a lime jelly. It sounds weird but she assured me it was ‘bloomin gorjus’

The food, wine and service was as good as we had expected given the reviews on Trip Advisor. Lesley had lamb for her main course. But….

Here comes the shocker a few days ago I had said to Lesley completely out of the blue that I had a notion for steak and chips – Yes that’s right Steak and Chips so for the first time in 35 years guess what I had!!!!

So I’ve gone from being a vegetarian to pescatarian to flexitarian? – or am I just plain fussy….

The early morning view from Charlies nearside

Lesley very unusually woke up early and said let’s watch the sunrise. We were on our own in the carpark so we opened the blind and lifted up the window and got snappy with the camera. Just as we were lying there in our birthday PJ’s! a police patrol car came by….. yikes get dressed, close the blinds, panic! We needn’t have worried, we think they had just come to up to see the sunrise as well.

We took dozens of windmill images
They were lit up at night and by the sunrise – magic
Enormous bull structure by the side of the road

After a night at one of our free best aires so far we set off north, planning to bypass Madrid. Hang on, it looks like the wildlife around here could be a bit of a concern. Not to worry says Dave, I’ve borrowed a red cloak from the oversized matador with the guitar…

Thanks again for reading about our journey.

D&L

Cordoba

Ok we’re having an argument. It’s nothing serious and whilst I can agree with Lesley that Valencia was a fantastic city, full to bursting with vibrancy and lots of things to do and see. For me Cordoba, as they say. ‘had me with hello’.

it’s a stock image but it does make the most of the view

The route from the highway via the tree lined boulevards suggested the city was well planned and inviting. It’s biggest draw is of course the unique Mosque / Cathedral. But it also has beautiful gardens and lots of green spaces, multiple Roman sites, great eateries and above all a city with very relaxed family atmosphere…

Charlie wedged up on a slightly sloping site

We’re splashing out a bit by staying at an aire close to the centre. It’s €17.95 per night but we can walk to Mezquita-Cathedral and the other main attractions. With a very tight entrance, Charlie’s backend played skittles with one of the posts as we turned into the site but as it didn’t do any damage to the van, it had obviously been knocked down before.

After settling Charlie in for the night (up the top step of the ramps on the downhill side) we headed out to find somewhere for dinner. Lesley’s research had suggested the Mercado Victoria – described as a culinary market where you can have a round-the-world food trip. in almost 30 stalls, there was a huge choice of Argentinian meats, Japanese sushi, Mexican, Chinese, fish & oysters options, cheeses, pizza, wine bar, beers and loads more.

Mercado Victoria

Walking back afterwards through the old Jewish area of town which has an attractive maze of white walls, flower pots, tapas and flamenco bars although perhaps too many touristy shops. This area is meant to have some good eateries but felt like it was trying too hard and was tired of the effort. So we were pleased we ate where we did.

The Mosque–Cathedral 

ABC alert – Although strictly speaking it’s A B M/C or if you’re a fan of Einstein and you think it was Excellent perhaps it can be expressed as E = mc2.

Influenced by Roman Aqueducts, the double arch design allowed for higher ceilings

The Mezquita (Mez-quit-a) is a huge Muslim-Mosque turned Catholic-Cathedral, that along with Granada’s Alhambra is one of the most important Moorish monuments.

It is difficult to overstate the importance of this place, its religious significance and its position in European history or the influence the Moors 450 year reign had on Spanish culture. I thought these dates help put it in perspective:

In 532 the Basilica of Hagia Sophia was built in Constantinople

786 The Moors started to construct the original Mosque on this site

1236 Ferdnando III conquers Cordoba

1372 Saw the completion of the Tower of Pisa

1882 Work begins on the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Like the Alhambra, the geometric designs of the Mesquita are very impressive

The geometric designs in Islamic art are often built on combinations of repeated squares and circles, which may be overlapped and interlaced as can arabesques (with which they are often combined), to form intricate and complex patterns

Wikipedia
Parish of the Tabernacle – Set in one corner of the Mosque

On the other hand the gaudy figurative designs of the superimposed Catholic elements, demonstrate starkly the hypocritical, over-the-top bling-ness worship of the Catholic faith. – No offence meant to any Catholics, lapsed or still full of guilt reading this!

The red & white Mosque arches can be seen in the left of this image

The Spanish king of the time allowed the cathedral to be built in such a unique place, but he did so sight-unseen and was a tad miffed when he saw the end result: a very odd mis-mash of cultures and styles. The end result of history is now a monumental a walled-in mosque with a cathedral parachuted slap bang in the middle of it.

After we’d finished taking dozens of photos, we headed out and around to find some lunch. Not before taking some shots of the Roman bridge.

I wanted a shot of the Roman bridge with the Mezquita in the background. Ideally with no one else on the bridge! Ok we had to share it, but you can’t have too many pictures of my beautiful wife.

We don’t seem to be getting any better at looking for food at the right time of day. After all that gawping it was 12:30 and we were hungry. However, the restaurant we had in mind in the La Ribera district didn’t start serving until 1:30 and was fully booked. After meandering around most of Cordoba looking for a new lunchtime utopia, we eventually ended up at La Taberna Del Rio in La Ribera, just 30 metres from our 1st choice.

Dave, hoping that if he sits there long enough he might catch an orange

All the pre-lunch wandering had taken us past many of the tourist sites and though the busy squares and streets thronged with expectant diners. Now with satisfied stomaches and tired legs we decided it was time for us to head back to our mobile hotel for a siesta.

So…, Valencia NO Cordoba, Cordoba NO Valencia. Ok, let’s see if we can find somewhere even better….

Toodle Pip

D&L